EK4

Salesville Ohio Pulling Society :o)

Here is my EK4. The EK4 has a .70 motor.

It is a little light in the nose.

Here is a shot of the new and factory clutches. They are a lot heavier so alot less sliping and even better flywheel action.

Here are all of the parts that you need. New clutch, new bell, 26 tooth gear, sleve (cut from clutch), 2 fender washers, 2 5X10mm bearings (I use the stock ones), 2 13X18mm bearings.

Here is my new '34 Ford body.

Here are some of the pics. for my clutch conversion that I am trying out.

The parts are from a Cen. Hawk heli. The 10mm bearing sleve is made from the clutch stand off that the clutch comes with, you just need to cut it off and use it on the other side of clutch to keep the clutch spinning the correct way.

Not a vary hard conversion if you want to try it. I will have some part numbers avail. soon.

A shot of the stock version 2 clutch bell and my new verison. A LOT more teeth. It will move out now.

A shot of my HillBilly lathe.

Here is what I did. Put flywheel into drill and turn down to flat. I took mine down to the inner recessed cut. I used a wood chisel and sand paper. (I wasted a lot of time with just sand paper, wood chisel did it in under 2 mins.) Take a moto tool and cut off the sleve off the clutch, then grind out the sleve to 10mm to take the bearings. Mark and drill the holes through the clutch for the through bolts to hold on the flywheel. I also have a small washer between the clutch and the flywheel so the clutch does not have any drag. Drill or ream out the drive gear so the 2 bearing will sit next too each other. I use a fender washer to hold the rearbearing in and also help keep the clutch from rubbing on the front of the bell. Assemble parts onto motor. I then turned a fender washer down to 18mm to hold the bearings clutch system on. I left this one a little big so it is pressed into the drive gear. Put in the bolt and washer into the end of the crank and that is it. I am still working on getting a better mount system up. Right now I am mounting the motor to a 1/4" plate then mounting that to the truck. The motor sits all the way to the bend on the pan so I am still working on a better system. But it is a good start. Also I can still use the start shaft on the rear of the motor, but you do haft to enter at a angle. not that bad of one so it should not cause much more wear.